|
 Since
Stone Age, textiles have been used by the
mankind for every possible use the mind can
think of. Advancement of technology and the need
for a diversified range of fabrics has made
inevitable for the fabric mills and the textile
goods manufacturer / user to interact closely.
In order to explain these objectives, a language
was needed. We are trying to explain the basics
of this language in the simplest of terms.
The
above shows a picture of a weaving loom in
action and fabric is being rolled on to tubes.
There is a large beam that has yarns (at the
back of this loom) that run in the vertical
direction. This is called as the
WARP. All warp
yarns are of predetermined size and evenness.
This size, evenness and strength is referred by
a number called COUNT.
To
complete the weave, yarns need to run in the
horizontal direction as well. This is
accomplished by way of small shuttles (wooden
blocks in older looms) that is filled with yarns
and is projected with a force from left to right
and again from right to left at a predetermined
speed. This horizontal direction is often
referred to as the
WEFT or FILL. The size of the
yarns used in the WEFT or FILL (shuttles) could
be same or different in comparison with the size
of the yarns used in the WARP. This size,
evenness and strength is referred by a number
called COUNT.
In
general the count of the yarn is INVERSELY
proportional to its size. I.e., A yarn with a
count of 10 is thinner in size and weaker in
strength as compared to a yarn with a count of
8. Depending on the end use of the fabric, two
or more yarns may be twisted together used in
the WARP and FILL directions.
Next
comes the tightness or looseness of the weave
(also referred as the WEAVE or DENSITY)How to
explain it? Simple. Mark a 1” x 1” square on the
fa bric
and count the number of yarns in the warp
direction (also referred as REED or
ENDS) and the number of yarns in the FILL
direction (also referred as PICKS).
Third…. How wide is the fabric? It is simply
denoted in Inches or
Centimeters from one edge of the fabric to the
other edge (Also referred as the SELVEDGE)
To
sum up:
A
hypothetical weaving construction of 10/1 x
14/2 86 x 45 110” can be deciphered as follows:
-
A SINGLE (represented by 1) yarn with
Count-10 is used in the warp direction.
-
2 yarns (twisted or plied together) with
Count-14 each are used in the fill
direction.
-
The number of ends per sq.inch in the warp
direction is 86.
-
The number of picks per sq.inch in the fill
direction is 45.
The
width of the fabric is 110” from selvedge to
selvedge.
Yarns are obtained from natural fibers (cotton,
linen, jute) etc. have a lot of undesired trash
(seeds) in them. They are purified using
different techniques like Carding, Combing etc.
Each fiber is then spun into yarns using
different techniques like Open End OE), Ring
Spun (RS) etc.
It gets a little complicated and beyond the
scope of our discussion if we start explaining
on the different weave patterns like 3/1 Twills,
denims, sateen’s, etc and other unusual |
